I have mixed feelings about the notion of “back to butter”. Part of me acknowledges the fact that butter has around 50% saturated fat, meaning high cholesterol and the associated increased risk of heart disease. The other half of me however dislikes processed food with a passion; margarine fits this description perfectly and is rumoured to contain carcinogenic ingredients. In this age of uncertainty where we are told everything is potentially bad for us, surely natural is the best choice…

Back to Butter takes a philosophical view of this topic, dividing people into two extremes (“Team Non-Fat Yoghurt” and “Team Fast Food”), and then shoots down both approaches. The lessons contained within are certainly food for thought (did you know that fat isn’t what makes you fat?).

One hundred years ago, the term low-fat didn’t exist. The fats used in a typical…home were animal based, namely lard, butter, and a bit of duck fat.

In a book which sells itself on its back to basics approach to food, it is pleasing to see the chapters and recipes following the same approach. The “Fats and Oils” chapter introduces the book, “Natural Sweeteners” suggests surprising ways to avoid sucrose, and “Nourishing Suppers” is packed full of stews and comfort food.

My definition of perfection? Hearing the screen door slam shut as I take off toward the garden…Grow food and eat it – that’s the good stuff of life.

There certainly seems to be a trend towards “back to basics” in the culinary world at the moment. Perhaps everyone has got bored with molecular gastronomy and fish with foam on top? Whatever the reason, the change is long over-due. Back to Butter is a welcome addition to the growing collection of cookbooks of this nature and is one I’d recommend anyone interested in natural food to have on their shelf.

Title: Back to Butter
Author(s): Molly Chester and Sally Schrecengost
Released: 01/03/2014
RRP: £16.99

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